Inflammation: “Tuning In” to Healthy, Bright and Beautiful Skin

Inflammation comes from the root inflame, from the Latin word inflammare meaning “to set on fire with passion.” We see the phrase on TV, as we casually scroll through social media, at the grocery store, at the doctor’s office, and in skincare marketing. We are consistently bombarded with targeted messaging of inflammation, inflammatory conditions and with that, anti-inflammatory diets, supplements and concoctions. Have far-reaching marketing efforts extinguished our response to the phrase? Do the words “inflammation” and “anti-inflammatory” sound the same alarm bells in our subconscious as they did 5, 10, 15 years ago? Or have we heard them so much that we now, though appreciate their importance, “tune out” to them? Let’s try to tune back into inflammation and what role true anti-inflammatory ingredients have in our professional treatment and home care offerings, reigniting the passion of understanding.

What is inflammation? Is it bad? Can it be good? What causes it? What corrects it?

The medical definition of inflammation is “a local response to cellular injury that is marked by capillary dilation, leukocytic infiltration, redness, heat, pain, swelling, and often loss of function and that serves as a mechanism initiating the elimination of noxious agents and of damaged tissue.” (Merriam-Webster) In other words, inflammation is the action that sounds the alarm, alerting everyone to “pay attention over here! Something may or may not be wrong and we need you to come see!”

Is it bad? Yes, and no. Inflammation is an important part of the immune system’s response to injury and infection. Inflammation alerts our body, signaling the immune system to heal and repair damaged tissue, defending against actual (viruses and bacteria) or perceived threats. Without the inflammatory response, wounds would fester, and infections could become deadly. No one wants to die from a pimple. No one.

Acne is a great example of inflammation presenting in the skin and the body’s attempt to correct the problem. There can be many causes of acne; hormonal, reactive, under or overactive sebaceous glands. In all instances, there is an imbalance, an opportunity for eruption; Bada Bing, Bada Zit! The body is alerted to a potential threat and the inflammatory response kicks the immune system into action sparking acute inflammation.

Acute inflammation has rapid onset and can become severe in a short period of time. Signs and symptoms appear and only last a few days to a few weeks. Acute inflammation is intense and temporary with the intention of allowing the immune functions to get in, fix the problem, and then retreat. Three main processes occur before and during acute inflammation:

• The small branches of arteries enlarge when supplying blood to the damaged region, resulting in increased blood flow. (redness)
• Capillaries become easier for fluids and proteins to infiltrate, meaning that they can move between blood and cells. (heat)
• The body releases neutrophils. A neutrophil is a type of white blood cell filled with tiny sacs that contain enzymes and digest microorganisms. (puss)

Acute inflammation is good, we need it. However, if acute inflammation turns into chronic inflammation, there’s a problem. Chronic refers to long-term inflammation and can last for several months and even years. It can result from:

• failure to eliminate whatever was causing an acute inflammation
• an autoimmune disorder that attacks normal healthy tissue, mistaking it for a pathogen that causes disease
• exposure to a low level of a particular irritant, such as an industrial chemical or UV rays, over a long period

Although damaged tissue cannot heal without inflammation, chronic inflammation can eventually cause several diseases and conditions, including some cancers. Inflammation needs to be well managed so acute does not lead to chronic.

The prefix anti- and the variant ant- is a Greek origin and means “against” or “opposite.” We see the prefix in many words, like antidote, antifreeze, antacid and anti-inflammatory. According to cancer.com and the NCI dictionary of cancer terms, anti-inflammatory is “A drug or substance that reduces inflammation (redness, swelling, and pain) in the body. Anti-inflammatory agents block certain substances in the body that cause inflammation.” In skincare, an anti-inflammatory ingredient works as a first line of defense, acting before an inflammatory response by not allowing inflammatory agents to take effect. As well, they work with the skin when acute inflammation is present to expedite healing, returning skin to an optimal state.

Controlled Inflammation– What if the problem is lackluster, dull, uneven skin? As skincare professionals, we often wag our fingers at inflammation while simultaneously touting the importance of anti-inflammatory ingredients in topical products. However, part of our offerings are potential pro-inflammatory modalities and elements. Microneedling, laser treatments and chemical peels are controlled wounds. When administering these modalities, the inflammatory response is initiated in specific, controlled parameters and then properly complemented with controlled healing. The inflammation is acute (temporary) and sends a message to the skin to regenerate, restore, tighten up and even out. The controlled healing, or home care, anti-inflammatory ingredients work with the body to guide the effective healing process for intended results. This is one reason why retailing is important. Clients need proper products to continue the effects of the treatment if they want to properly correct the chief concern they presented in the initial consultation.

Un-controlled Inflammation is a contributor of advanced, premature aging. Inflammation is not just the sun, not just irritating products, not just diet, not just stress, but is present in nearly every aspect of our lives. We are constantly being taunted and baited by inflammatory opportunities. Understanding inflammation also shifts the understanding of aging and what it means to really fight against it. A proper diet and managing stress responses are a great compliment to skincare treatments and effective home care products.

Merely boasting about the inclusion of anti-inflammatory ingredients does not make a product effective. Unfortunately, as we know, not all products are created equally. Pairing anti-inflammatory ingredients with inflammatory ones negates the intention and then, what’s the point? Additionally, a smidgen of anti-inflammatory may not be enough. Using products that are composed of several anti-inflammatory ingredients, in guided formulations are what will provide a true defense and recovery.

The combination of mastiha, Lira Clinical’s signature powerhouse ingredient, turmeric, cut leaf ground cherry, enhanced probiotics and many other clinically proven ingredients provide an awesome rescue and recovery response in the skin.

Though the effect of the word “anti-inflammatory” may have been diluted with overexposure, the use of anti-inflammatory ingredients in effectively formulated professional products will help to extinguish the opportunity for harmful inflammation and aggressive, premature aging.